Whirlpool and Maytag F-Codes Explained — Washer, Oven, and Dishwasher Error Codes
Whirlpool and Maytag appliances (they are the same company) use a two-part error code system: an F-code followed by an E-code. The F tells you which system has the problem. The E tells you the specific fault. Here are the most common ones we see in the field, what they actually mean, and what to do about them.
F5 E2 — Door Lock Error (Ovens and Ranges)
The oven door lock cannot engage or disengage. You may see this after a self-clean cycle when the latch motor fails to release, locking you out of your oven.
What to try: Unplug the range for 5 minutes. When it powers back on, the latch mechanism may reset. If the door is stuck locked, do not force it — you can break the latch assembly.
What it usually means: The door lock motor and switch assembly has failed. On some models, the issue is the control board not sending the unlock signal. A technician can test the latch circuit to determine which component is at fault.
Need oven repair? See our oven and range repair service.
F7 E1 — Motor Speed Sensing Error (Washers)
The control board is not detecting the correct motor speed. The washer may stop mid-cycle or refuse to spin.
What to try: Unplug for 10 minutes and restart. Check that the washer is not overloaded.
What it usually means: A failed motor rotor position sensor (RPS), a failing motor, or a control board issue. On Whirlpool top-load washers with direct-drive systems, the RPS is a common failure point and is an affordable repair.
F0 E2 — Too Many Suds (Washers)
The washer detected excessive suds. It will pause the cycle and may add extra rinses to clear the soap.
What to try: This one is on you — use less detergent. HE washers need 1–2 tablespoons of HE detergent per load. Most people use 5–10 times too much. Run a rinse/spin cycle with no detergent to clear the suds. See our detergent guide for more details.
What it usually means: Too much detergent. Rarely, it can indicate a pressure switch misread, but 95% of the time the fix is using less soap.
F2 E1 — Keypad / User Interface Error (Ovens)
A key on the oven touchpad is stuck or the user interface board has failed.
What to try: Unplug the range for 5 minutes. If the error returns immediately after powering on, the touchpad or the board behind it needs attention.
What it usually means: Typically a failed touchpad membrane or the user interface board. On some models, the touchpad and board are one combined assembly. On others, they are separate — board-level diagnosis can determine which part actually failed without guessing.
F3 E1 — Pressure Sensor / Temperature Sensor Error
On washers, this is usually the water level pressure sensor. On ovens, it is the oven temperature sensor (also called the RTD sensor).
Washer (F3 E1): The pressure transducer is not reading correctly. The washer cannot determine water level. If you have a Whirlpool top-load washer built between 2021–2024, this may be the known pressure sensor defect covered by Whirlpool.
Oven (F3 E1): The temperature sensor is reading out of range. The oven cannot regulate temperature. The sensor is usually a probe mounted inside the oven cavity near the back wall. It can be tested with a multimeter — it should read approximately 1,080 ohms at room temperature.
F9 E1 — Long Drain Error (Washers and Dishwashers)
The appliance cannot drain within the expected time. On washers, this is similar to LG's OE code.
What to try: On washers, clean the drain pump filter and check the drain hose. On dishwashers, clean the filter assembly at the bottom of the tub and check the drain hose where it connects to the disposal or drain tailpiece under the sink.
What it usually means: Clogged drain path, failed drain pump, or a kinked drain hose. On dishwashers, food debris in the sump and filter is the most common cause.
F2 E0 — Shorted Keypad (Ovens)
A key on the oven touchpad is shorted. Similar to F2 E1 but specifically indicating a short circuit rather than a stuck key.
What to try: Same as F2 E1 — power cycle first. If it returns, the touchpad assembly needs replacement or board-level repair.
What the F and E Numbers Mean
The F-code identifies the system: F0/F1 = control electronics, F2 = user interface/keypad, F3 = sensors, F5 = door lock, F7 = motor, F8 = water system, F9 = drain system. The E-code narrows it to the specific fault within that system. Knowing this helps you understand what area of the appliance has the problem, even if you cannot fix it yourself.
If your Whirlpool or Maytag appliance is showing an F-code that will not clear after a power cycle, we can diagnose and repair it on-site. Washer repair | Oven repair | Dishwasher repair | Request a repair
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Are Whirlpool and Maytag error codes the same?
A: Yes. Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and Amana all use the same F/E error code system.
Q: How do I clear an F-code on my Whirlpool washer?
A: Unplug for 10 minutes and plug it back in. If the code returns, the underlying issue needs professional diagnosis.
Q: What does F0 E2 mean on a Whirlpool washer?
A: Too many suds. Use less detergent — HE washers only need 1–2 tablespoons. Run a rinse/spin with no detergent to clear.
Q: Is the Whirlpool F3 E1 pressure sensor defect covered?
A: Whirlpool issued a service bulletin for certain top-load models built 2021–2024. Coverage depends on your model and serial number. We can check eligibility during a service call.
Whirlpool or Maytag showing an F-code? Request a repair or call (806) 730-6300.
For more on Whirlpool and Maytag repair, see our Whirlpool and Maytag repair page.
Washer full of water? See our washer not draining troubleshooting guide.
